After over a fortnight in Penang and Phuket, we are in transit to home. Sitting in Starbucks at Changi waiting for the Jestar flight.
I have half a post which I will put up now, which covers half our time in Penang, theres more, and I will post it all even though I am home in less than 10 hours.
The blog has two purposes, to perhaps interest other readers, and for me to flag the events into memory, with at least a rudiment of chronology.
Here's the most recent entry, hope you enjoy it:
RUN RUN AS FAST AS YOU CAN
Leaving for Singapore 20 Oct
On the KLM 777 we scored (arsed) bulkhead seats so there's heaps of legroom. Got some sleep. I watched the A-team and Shrek 3 on the plane, both aptly low-level cerebral adventures.
Singapore (Changi) is a layover for 7 hours, because Tiger cancelled a flight on us. AirAsia opens their desk early so we can get checked in.
Penang 22 Oct - very early AM
Richard and Julie pick us up in the hire car. It's fantastic to see them. It's so good not to have to worry about transport out to the hotel. The rental car is a Proton POS with dicky supension that struggles with we weighty Aussies.
Our hotel is right on the beach, and we have scored the best room. The view out of the window is just amazing.
A hire car was a good choice here, in Malaysia, they drive on the left, and everyone goes slowly and is courteous on this island. The roads are Ok in Penang but it's busy. Big one metre deep concrete gutters yawn on the edge of the road with no kerb to ward you off. Watch that left hand wheel!
We find a shopping centre, close to the hotel for supplies. Fruit, chocolate, Leffe beers, Koonunga Hill Cab Shiraz (score!)
Penang Island is about half the size of Phuket, you can drive right around the island in half a day.
Resorts dot the northern shores and the tropical forest encroaches onto the roadsides in the nicest way.
We seem to be back in Italy again, at this hotel anyway, we have the return of the dontgiveashit service level. But unlike Italy, they do make a reasonable Pizza.
Since the dates here are kind of irrelevant, I will omit them, and besides by now it would be hard work attaching dates to events.
We took the ferry up to Langkawi.
The Euro-jetlag has hit me, I slept most of the way to Langkawi stretched out across four seats.
Langkawi is a beautiful tropical island, about 2.5 hours north of Penang by ferry. The ferry we got there was a sexy aluminium Cat, with comfortable seats and a quiet cabin.
A tour bus collected us and the guide took us to a spot where we selected a small boat tour combination. Everyone seemed surprised when we asked not to be taken to the Bat Cave.
What the tour calls a fish farm was in fact a floating fish zoo, but the spitting fish, and the 6 kilo Giant trevally that lept 1/2 metre out of the netted pond to get a morsel of food, causing Sheryl to squeal with surprise and me to laugh like a drain at her response, were the highlights of that segment.
The sea eagles that we fed from the water were just a delight. Floating in a little mangrove enveloped bend in the river (estuary really), we sat quietly in the sun watching a dozen or more of them delicately wheel around and swoop to pick pieces of food off the waters surface. You could hear their wings cutting the air.
Click for Video here.After a lap around the rocks we returned to the base and the guide took us around the Island to the chair lift.
The island has only 1 industrial area, a Hanson cement works (using a local lime quarry) the rest is rubber plantations and rice paddies and the occasional fruit tree stand. And there are, of course, the great swathes of rainforest that cover the hills everywhere you look.
We were there in a quiet time, but I imagine that the Island (group) would tolerate a lot of tourists.
It's just an opinion, but it seems tourists are hemmed in, isolated from the fragile bits. It's a comforting example of eco-tourism done well.
The chair lift was just amazing. It gives 360 degree views over the entire island, and absolutely worth the vist and the fee, it's not just for the ride.
We persuaded the tour guide to take us to a nice beach for a swim, which, after the hot closet cable car, was a welcoming and very refreshing dip in paradise. White sands + cool aqua coloured water + nobody else = heaven on a stick. Even with sufficient time up our sleeves after the tour, a fight with the ATM, compulsory visit to Starbucks and some last minute browsing almost made us late for the ferry, so we rushed on.
Langkawi back to Penang was 3 unforgetable hours. The ferry was not the Ali Cat that we came out on. This thing was shaped like an artillery shell, and had three distinct cabins and twin turbo aircraft engines driving twin jets. This thing was loud, I mean space shuttle loud. I lay down in the midships cabin and you could hear that the engines made the whole boat shake. It sounded like a rapid fire canon shooting rounds into in a metal rubbish bin factory.
Added to that, I swear the aircon was connected directly to the drive shaft so that cabin was a freezer. We were all dressed for the tropics and had to move. We went outside to get some warmth. Unfortunately that is down the back near the engines. Our 10 minutes there, warming up, and straining for the broken conversation caused my ears to ring all night after. I shook my head at the fate of the crew who worked next to the engines.
We sat back inside, at the front and away from the noise, but they were playing some slasher/splatter movie on the video, so we talked and froze some more. I took to standing up for the last half an hour in the harbour as it seemed warmer.
When we disembarked, the kids in the other cabin looked shell shocked, and I wonder how much they had to watch the movie. It might have been a cold day in hell for them.
All in all, Langkawi was a great day. Thanks to Rich and Jules for recommending it, and we were so glad to have them with us to share it.
There were veiled admonishments when we got to the car, and the battery was completely dead. But, after losing our way in Little India, finding a cab, and a bit of scrambling for dinner, and we settled back in the hotel.
With the goal of visting Butterworth (an old Australian outpost) and driving across the bridge to the mainland our next excursion turned out to be something of a fizzer, as Butterworth in places, resembles the more run down areas in Europe we'd already seen, but we did get to cross the iconic bridge, and then put the car on a car ferry and go back to Penang jetty. I got out of the car on the ferry, both because we wanted to see the harbour as we traversed, but also because in the seemingly likely event of the ferry swamping, I'd prefer my own floating skills, not those of the rental Proton.
But we survived the traverse unscathed and I lived to blog yet another day.
Richard, always on the lookout for a bargain, spies an overnight cruise to nowhere, aboard the Star Cruiser - Pisces. So we part with the dosh, and climb abord with the standard cruise protocols in play, safety, bars, food, casinos.
Well, it turns out they were in the completely wrong order, because apart from three middle-eastern types we were the only 'round-eyed' guests aboard. So the majority of people were there for the gambling, an overnight cruise to nowhere, and back, bring your wallet. Well, what did we expect (I hear you ask)?
Our 'stateroom' was a closet with bunks, but we knew that when booking, and didn't care, we were going to stay awake all night anyway.
They had selections of entertainment, including an 'Oktoberfest' celebration. All you can drink in 2hrs for $25 pp. Richard and I forced down as many Carslbergs as we could manage in the 90 minutes we were there. I am fairly sure the ship made a substantial loss on beer that night, even though it was only us two drinking. (The casinos were open, total beer drinkers=2)
At the casino, Richard and I played the law of averages on Roulette, he finished up well ahead, I was a layer of skin above even, Sheryl and Julie played a pokie each, and (literally) waited for the gravy train that never came. In the end we had a real hoot, and it was a cheap night.
We dragged ourselves off to bed about 4am and left the boat after 9.
Be warned, navigation in Penang is hard. Especially in Georgetown. The city has taken the unidirectional solution to traffic management, so you can get stuck on a one way road in the middle of the town and travel many km's in the opposite direction before you get a look at a road sign and a chance to make a turn in the correct one.
I didn't have the TomTom maps for Asia, so we went on street signs and deciphering arrows on the hotel tourist map. In one afternoon I burnt through about $10 worth of fuel, seemingly going in ever-decreasing circles, not getting anywhere.
We put it down to exploring, but it was called bog laps when I was a teen.
The time in the Tanjung Bungah Beach Hotel (yep) was really special not just for the great views, but because we ventured out and explored Penang on our own, and all enjoyed the time together.
October 29, transit to Phuket.
The only air carrier available to us for this travel segment, is a tinpot operation called Firefly. (apparently MAS domestic)
My suspicions of tinpot were confirmed at Penang airport by the twin prop 80 seater that pulled up at the gate. "What sort of plane have you put me on Richard?" yells Sheryl when she sees it. Its only salvation is that it's bright orange so it will be easy to see in the water.
The trip is safe and short enough (1:20) and the ocean island view was nice and we are Phuket ready by the time they get the plane down.
All of us like Phuket, its friendly buzz makes the time there worthwhile.
We can't wait for the shuttle trip to be over so we can see the hotel. So we can share it with Pete and Liz, we booked at Le Meridien, Karon beach for our first three nights. It is 5 star heaven. A private beach, 6 pools, 10 bars, 7 restaurants, all the facilities, gym to avoid, golf range, diving, tennis etc. You never have to leave the estate.
The ocean is warm, sky blue and beer very cold. The poolview room is just the cherry on top of the cream. After a swim, unpack, & mandatory test of the bath, we head back to Patong for dinner with R & J.
Phuket day 2.
All that sporty sort of activity is too much like work so today we settle for a swim and some quiet time. We catch up with Rich and Jules for a time, when Pete and Liz arrive, suitably wrung out from so much travel.
The Thai smorgasbord is a welcome treat, so we find a spot and get some catching up done.
They are in really good spirits.
Phuket Day 3
A delightful hotel breakfast starts the day for us. Then the beach beckons. There's some rain about, which we artfully dodge.
Liz and Sheryl opt for some time in the day spa, this suits our 'incognito' plans, as the green hotel surroundings support that Heinekken camouflage so well.
As part of their visit, Peter and Liz have treated us all to a lash up dinner in the Baan Rim Pa, a restaurant with to-die-for views down and over Patong beach and 5 star service.
I was sad to finish up such an exceptional dinner there, but we settled into a bar at the hotel and kicked on a little.
For me, it was far too early for them to leave on the next afternoon for me, I would have liked to have shared so much more time with them both.
The next week in Patong has been just a chill out.
The weather was unkind for two days, but we dodged and weaved and made the best of it.
The Hotel we moved to, "BaumanBuri" has a poolside access room, good bars and good staff.
You could spend all your time here looking for just the right massage, but with a bit of research we found a crew that could do all the types (foot/back/neck/shoulders) as well as we needed, so they got our custom, quite often.
For the next week the weather cleared and we got som hot days, we swam, explored, shopped, talked, ate and drank and laughed with Richard and Julie and basically fell into a chill-out routine. It's hard to do better.
It has been the most excellent time, and a seriously good way to finish off a seriously excellent holiday.
Right now, after 3 re-announcements of our aeroplanes schedule, delayed due to the volcano in Indonesia, I have spent the last hours finishing the blog in the poolside bar at Changi T1. I have to board in an hour.
After this there's only the last post, the finale which I have finished but will leave up as a draft until I am home. Hope you have enjoyed it.
Roland